28/09/2014
25/09/2014
Cantar à capela
Durante um almoço de família, o meu tio Benedito canta uma cantiga "à capela"...
During a family lunch, my uncle Benedito sings a song "a cappella"...
During a family lunch, my uncle Benedito sings a song "a cappella"...
24/09/2014
23/09/2014
Trabalhos de casa
Há coisas que não mudam, passem muitas ou poucas gerações sobre elas. Nestes dois desenhos, o meu filho Manel desespera no último dia de férias, entretido a fazer trabalhos de casa de empreitada...
There are things that don´t change, even if lots of generations cross them. In this two drawings, my despairing son Manel in the last day of vacations, amused doing his home-work in a row...
22/09/2014
GULBENKIAN
O encontro 61 dos Urban Sketchers Portugal foi nos jardins da Gulbenkian. Confesso que me atemorizam as árvores e outras verduras, se as tiver que meter no meu caderno. A minha desorientação no momento de colocar cor no desenho atinge assim o seu expoente máximo... preciso treinar mais.
The 61º meeting of Urban Sketchers Portugal was in the gardens of Gulbenkian. I confess that frighten me trees and other vegetables, specially if I need to put them in my sketchbook. My disorientation reaches its peak in the colouring moment... I need to train more.
21/09/2014
19/09/2014
Barcelona
"Os edifícios de Antoni Gaudì i Cornet não parecem apenas alheios à sua época, inclusivé à nossa época, ou ao futuro - parecem impossíveis em qualquer tempo. Alguns lembram mais seres vivos, ou restos fossilizados de seres vivos, do que edifícios. Melhor: são edifícios tanto quanto uma concha, ou a carapaça de uma tartaruga, ou um morro de térmitas, são edifícios - e sim, claro, são edifícios."
Capítulo: Outono em Barcelona
José Eduardo Agualusa, in Passageiros em trânsito
"The buildings from Antoni Gaudí i Cornet does not seem just beyond his time, including our time, or the future - seem impossible at any time. Some more resemble living beings, or fossilized remains of living beings, buildings. Better: they are buildings as much as a shell, or the shell of a turtle or a termite hill, they are buildings - and yes, of course, they are buildings. "
Chapter: Outono em Barcelona
José Eduardo Agualusa, in Passageiros em trânsito
18/09/2014
Prego!
Já tinha saído de Paraty há vinte horas, quando cheguei ao aeroporto de Roma para o meu voo de ligação para Lisboa. Sentia-me completamente desengonçado e desorientado, nem noção das horas tinha. Andei para trás e para a frente, entre controlo de bagagens e passaporte. Fiz o controlo de bagagens duas vezes, da primeira não valeu porque tinha passado sem o bilhete que entretanto tinha perdido, levaram-me a um sítio onde me ralharam mas não me fizeram mal.
As duas horas de espera passaram a cinco, os aviões da TAP têm tido uns problemazitos que às vezes arreliam as pessoas e as moem enquanto esperam. Na minha espera, e sentado numa cadeira que parecia feita de pau, encontrei vontade para desenhar um par de senhoras italianas, muito faladoras e arranjadas, pareciam saídas de um filme qualquer. Comecei a desenhá-las, achando que ninguem daria conta do meu estado e daquilo que estava a fazer. Mas deram conta. O grupo das senhoras estava sentado ao meu lado, e não me dei conta. Começou tamanho alvoroço, em volta dos desenhos e de mim, entre perguntas em italiano, e respostas em português...
Prego!
I already had left Paraty twenty hours ago when I arrived at Rome airport, for my connecting flight to Lisbon. I felt completely disoriented and unhinged, I had no notion of hours at all. I walked back and forth between passport control and luggage. Luggage I did control twice, the first was not valid because I had passed without the ticket, seemed I lost it somewhere. They led me to a place where they scold me but they not hit me.
The two hours of waiting passed to five, the TAP aircraft are having some small problems sometimes, teasing people and grind while waiting. In my waiting, and sitting in a chair that seemed made of wood, I found the will to draw a pair of very chatering and arranged Italian ladies, seemed out of a movie. I started drawing them, thinking that no one would notice my condition and what I was doing. But they realized. The group of ladies were seated beside me, and I did not realize. An huge revolution began, about the drawings and myself, between questions in Italian, with answers in Portuguese...
Prego!
The two hours of waiting passed to five, the TAP aircraft are having some small problems sometimes, teasing people and grind while waiting. In my waiting, and sitting in a chair that seemed made of wood, I found the will to draw a pair of very chatering and arranged Italian ladies, seemed out of a movie. I started drawing them, thinking that no one would notice my condition and what I was doing. But they realized. The group of ladies were seated beside me, and I did not realize. An huge revolution began, about the drawings and myself, between questions in Italian, with answers in Portuguese...
Prego!
12/09/2014
Largo do Rosário
O chão das ruas no centro histórico de Paraty, é diferente de todo o chão de todas as ruas que alguma vez possamos ter percorrido. É abaulado, torto, convergindo para o meio, à espera da água que a maré alta lhe vai trazer. É pavimentado com pedras irregulares e arredondadas, de todos os tamanhos e assentes numa terra fininha amarela, sempre desejosas de nos fazer escorregar.
Agora que olho para o meu caderno sinto que cada uma dessas ruas tinha merecido um desenho.
The paving of the streets in the historic center of Paraty, is different from all the pavings of all the streets that we have ever traveled. It is curved, crooked, converging to the middle, waiting for the water that the high tide will bring along. It is paved with irregular and rounded stones, of all sizes and based on a thin yellow land, always eager to make us slip.
Now I when look into my sketchbook, I feel that each one of these streets should have been drawn.
Now I when look into my sketchbook, I feel that each one of these streets should have been drawn.
O Largo do Rosário, desenhado na mesma tarde pelo Kiah Kiean, da Malásia.
Largo do Rosário, drawn in the same day by Kiah Kiean, from Malasya.
11/09/2014
O cão de guarda
Pelas ruas abauladas do centro histórico de Paraty encontrámos muitos cães, não cheguei a perceber se vadios ou com dono. Para vadios estavam excepcionalmente bem tratados e alimentados, e irradiavam tranquilidade. Eram simpáticos, como todos os seres que encontrámos nesta cidade encantadora.
O final do primeiro dia do simpósio, o único com dois workshops, teve uma deliciosa palestra da Karina Kuschnir, que falou sobre os exercícios de desenho que fez com os seus alunos de Antropologia e Etnografia. Os seus desenhos e estórias são encantadores, vale a pena visitar o BLOG.
Depois desta palestra disseram-nos para aguardar na Casa da Cultura, daí a pouco iria ter lugar um concerto com uma banda instrumental local, um momento de música e desenho que poucos enjeitaram. Pouco antes de começar perguntei se poderia sentar-me num cantinho do palco, para desenhar os músicos bem de perto. Disseram-me que sim, desde que me escondesse atrás de umas cortinas pretas, tentando não incomodar. Apagaram-se as luzes, apenas ficaram ligadas as do palco, apontando para os três músicos. E eu entretido, a metê-los no meu caderno. Talvez vinte minutos depois alguém puxou a cortina, era a Fernanda Vaz de Campos a segredar-me para irmos jantar. Já passava das nove. Fiz sinal ao João, acenando com a cabeça na direcção da porta da rua. Lembrei-me que estava no sítio mais ruim para sair a meio de um concerto, o palco. Esperei a música acabar, arrumei tudo na mochila e saí de marcha-atrás, a descer do palco e a bater palmas, talvez ninguém tivesse dado conta.
Saímos dali a correr, fomos para o restaurante italiano onde iria ouvir a deliciosa estória do José Marconi, e do desenho roubado no circo. Saímos por volta da meia noite, eu e o João, rebentados por um primeiro dia muito exigente. Duas ruelas depois chegávamos à Pousada do Sandi, onde o João estava hospedado. À porta estava um daqueles cães vadios de Paraty, malhado de branco e castanho, de patinhas curtas, parecia guardião daquela porta. Abanou alegremente o rabo, correu para o João, que largou tudo para o abraçar, e encher de festas, rebolando os dois pelo chão empoeirado e por entre as pedras arredondadas daquelas ruas.
The watchdog:
In the curved streets of the historic center of Paraty I found many dogs, I didn´t understand if they were homeless or not. They looked extremely well treated and fed, and they radiated tranquility. They were friendly, as all beings that we found in this lovely city.
At the end of the first day of the symposium, the only one with two workshops, we attend to a delightful lecture from Karina Kuschnir, who spoke about drawing exercises she did with hes students of Anthropology and Ethnography. Her drawings and stories are charming, don´t miss her BLOG.
After this lecture they told us to wait at the Casa da Cultura, shortly afterwards would take place a concert with a local instrumental band, a moment of music and art that few of us will miss. Just before they start, I asked if I could sit in a corner of the stage, to draw the musicians up close. They told me that I could, since I hid behind some black curtains, trying not to bother. The lights were turned off, only the ones on the stage were on, pointing to the three musicians. And myself, amused, putting them in my sketchbook. Maybe twenty minutes later someone pulled the curtain, was Fernanda Vaz de Campos whispering to me to go to dinner. It was probably nine ó-clock. I looked to João, pointing toward the front door. I remembered that was in the worst place to leave in the middle of a concert, the stage. I waited the song ended, I packed everything and left reversing, down from the stage and clapping, perhaps no one had noticed.
We run out, and went to the Italian restaurant where I heard the delightful story of José Marconi, about the stolen drawing from the circus. We left around midnight, me and João, tired by an exhausted first day. Two streets later we arrived at the Pousada do Sandi, where João was hosted. At the entrance door was one of those local Paraty dogs, white and brown, with short little legs, seemed guardian of that door. Happily wagged his tail, running into João, who dropped everything to embrace him, both wiggling around the dusty floor and through the curved stone streets of Paraty.
At the end of the first day of the symposium, the only one with two workshops, we attend to a delightful lecture from Karina Kuschnir, who spoke about drawing exercises she did with hes students of Anthropology and Ethnography. Her drawings and stories are charming, don´t miss her BLOG.
After this lecture they told us to wait at the Casa da Cultura, shortly afterwards would take place a concert with a local instrumental band, a moment of music and art that few of us will miss. Just before they start, I asked if I could sit in a corner of the stage, to draw the musicians up close. They told me that I could, since I hid behind some black curtains, trying not to bother. The lights were turned off, only the ones on the stage were on, pointing to the three musicians. And myself, amused, putting them in my sketchbook. Maybe twenty minutes later someone pulled the curtain, was Fernanda Vaz de Campos whispering to me to go to dinner. It was probably nine ó-clock. I looked to João, pointing toward the front door. I remembered that was in the worst place to leave in the middle of a concert, the stage. I waited the song ended, I packed everything and left reversing, down from the stage and clapping, perhaps no one had noticed.
We run out, and went to the Italian restaurant where I heard the delightful story of José Marconi, about the stolen drawing from the circus. We left around midnight, me and João, tired by an exhausted first day. Two streets later we arrived at the Pousada do Sandi, where João was hosted. At the entrance door was one of those local Paraty dogs, white and brown, with short little legs, seemed guardian of that door. Happily wagged his tail, running into João, who dropped everything to embrace him, both wiggling around the dusty floor and through the curved stone streets of Paraty.
10/09/2014
Pousada do Sandi
A Pousada do SANDI era o lugar onde estavam (provavelmente) hospedados todos os instrutores do Simpósio. É talvez o lugar mais encantador daqueles que vi nos poucos dias em Paraty, e vi apenas de fugida, num dos dias que combinei com o João Catarino passar por lá antes do jantar para o apanhar. Um exemplo da mais bela arquitectura colonial, perfeitamente preservada, aliada a uma decoração extraordinária e de bom gosto, um bar cativante bem próximo do jardim tropical no páteo, e uma atmosfera em que só apetece escrever ou desenhar.
Do lado de dentro não fiz um único desenho, e sinto-me miserável por isso, não sei quando voltarei a ter a mesma oportunidade.
Pousada do SANDI was the place where (probably) all instructors from the Symposium were hosted. It's perhaps the most charming place of those I saw in the few days in Paraty, and saw only fleetingly, in one of the days where I stop to catch over João Catarino before dinner. An example of the most beautiful colonial architecture, perfectly preserved, combined with an extraordinary and charming decoration, a captivating bar near the tropical garden in the courtyard, and an atmosphere perferct to writers or to draw. Inside the pousada I did not make a single drawing, and I feel so miserable for that, I do not know when I'll have the same opportunity.
07/09/2014
A pianista - parte II
Já tinha o livro do Mário e da Ketta comigo há umas semanas, quando foi o lançamento oficial na Faculdade de Belas Artes. Tive a oportunidade de falar com o Mário dizendo-lhe o quanto encantador estava a achar o livro, e que, sem aparente propósito, o estava a ler de trás para a frente, lendo primeiro as estórias das gentes e as circunstâncias daqueles lugares na Costa do Marfim, absorvendo a descrição das palavras, imaginando depois o desenho que daí a pouco iria procurar. Disse-lhe que era surpreendente esta descoberta, e que as estórias que ambos estavam a contar e a desenhar da Costa do Marfim eram absolutamente deliciosas.
Acredito que a estória que contei da pianista, o segundo post sobre a minha viagem a Paraty (ver AQUI) possa ter tido um efeito semelhante. Falei daquele último desenho feito no jardim da Praça da Matriz, os Paratianos apaixonados que namoravam num banco de jardim, do último serão do simpósio num clube de forró, com cachaça e desenhos arrancados à bruta de um caderno, o João aos gritos, numa descrição de palavras e sem imagens. O Sílvio, argentino, que fazia anos nessa noite e nos vem visitar a Lisboa no próximo ano, os bancos baixinhos e a mesa encostada ao balcão.
Mas as estórias são mais ricas se tiverem desenhos, e não os resisto a publicar, agora que os recebi do outro lado do Atlântico e me reavivaram a memória. O primeiro desenho é aquele que a Rita Sabler fez no jardim, enquanto eu a desenhava. O segundo é aquele que fiz no clube de forró e arranquei do caderno, num sacrilégio que transformei em privilégio. O último é aquele que a Rita fazia de mim, enquanto a desenhava a ela e ao Sílvio.
No desenho que fiz da Rita, representei-a com um enorme e disforme nariz, totalmente errado, culpa da cachaça ou falta de habilidade. Desculpa Rita. No desenho dela pareço ter uns sessenta anos e um ar abatido. Visto agora, parece-me justo...
The pianist - part II
I already had the book from Mario and Ketta a few weeks before, when it was the official launch at Faculdade de Belas Artes. I had the opportunity to speak with Mario telling him how charming was the book, and without apparent purpose, I was reading it from back to front, first reading the stories of the people and the circumstances of those places in the Ivory Coast, absorbing the description of words, then imagining the drawings that I would see after a while. I told him that this discovery was amazing, and the stories they were both counting and drawing from the Ivory Coast were absolutely delicious.
I believe the story I told about the pianist, the second post about my trip to Paraty (see HERE) may have had a similar effect. I spoke about the last drawing made in the garden of Praça da Matriz, with those Paraty lovers dating in a park bench, the last evening of the symposium in a forró club with cachaça and drawings riped with violence from my sketchbook, João screaming, a description of words and no pictures. Silvio, the guy from Argentine, who was celebrating his anniversary and comes to visit us in Lisbon next year, shorties benches and the table against the counter.
I believe the story I told about the pianist, the second post about my trip to Paraty (see HERE) may have had a similar effect. I spoke about the last drawing made in the garden of Praça da Matriz, with those Paraty lovers dating in a park bench, the last evening of the symposium in a forró club with cachaça and drawings riped with violence from my sketchbook, João screaming, a description of words and no pictures. Silvio, the guy from Argentine, who was celebrating his anniversary and comes to visit us in Lisbon next year, shorties benches and the table against the counter.
But the stories are richer if they have drawings, and I do not resist to post, now that I receive them from the other side of the Atlantic, and I revived the memory. The first drawing is the one Rita Sabler did in the garden while I was drawing her. The second is the one I did in forró club and riped out from my sketchbook, a sacrilege that I turned into a privilege. The last is the one Rita did of me, while I was drawing her and Silvio.
In the drawing I did of Rita, I represented her with a wrong huge and misshapen nose, problem of the cachaça or lack of skill. Sorry Rita. In her drawing I seem to have about sixty years old and looked depressed. Seen now, it seems fair to me ...
Rita´s drawing
Mine
Rita´s drawing
05/09/2014
O ladrão do circo
Os desenhistas de Curitiba encontram-se todos os Domingos para desenhar. Já levam mais de 70 encontros sem falhar, e no dia seguinte ao fim do simpósio, voltaram a fazê-lo, desta vez em Paraty. Para além de persistentes e talentosos, são também muito divertidos, a avaliar pelo José Marconi e a sua encantadora mulher Lia.
Na noite de 5ª feira, eu e o João Catarino saímos meio a correr da Casa da Cultura, quartel general do simpósio e fugidos do concerto que estava a ter lugar àquela hora, porque ainda não tínhamos jantado. Fomos "sequestrados" pela Fernanda Vaz de Campos, talvez a mais incansável de todo o staff do simpósio, que nos levou a um restaurante italiano carregadinho de urbansketchers daqueles bons, dos que estavam em Paraty para ensinar e que conhecemos dos livros. Passava das dez da noite, pedimos uma massa servida num prato fundo daqueles que também podem levar um caldo. Sem dar licença fomos surpreendidos pelo Marconi e pela Lia, que se sentaram ao nosso lado. A Lia mandou vir duas cachaças, e ofereceu-me uma. Não reclamei. Por entre conversas divertidas e gargalhadas da Lia absolutamente inesquecíveis, o José contou uma estória deliciosa:
Num desses domingos dos encontros de Curitiba, foram desenhar para um circo. Foram aparentemente muito bem recebidos, pelo anãozinho, a mulher barbada, os trapezistas, todos, para uma manhã de desenhos insólita. Já depois do almoço, e chegado em casa, o Marconi percebeu que tinha esquecido o desenho em algum lugar. O circo!
Regressou ao circo a meio da tarde, sozinho. Encontrou um lugar diferente, vazio de gente divertida, uma espécie de cenário retirado de um daqueles filmes da máfia. Ninguém o tratou bem. Nem o anãozinho, nem a mulher barbada, nem os trapezistas.
"Ok, não havia mulher barbada, fui eu que inventei. Mas tudo o resto é verdade", disse o Marconi.
Disseram-lhe que não tinham encontrado desenho algum.
"Vai embora!", gritaram.
"Mas eu não saio daqui sem o meu desenho", sublinhou o Marconi, enquanto a Lia ria que nem uma perdida.
Foram chamando gente, nenhum com vontade de ajudar. Chamaram o chefe do circo, o dono dos anões, da mulher barbada e dos trapezistas. Não, afinal não havia mulher barbada.
"Você sabe que no circo tudo tem um preço?", disse o grande chefe.
Parecia que pedia dinheiro pela devolução do desenho, que lhe tinha sido oferecido como um presente muito especial. Existia cada vez mais tensão e vontade de sair dali.
" Eu não saio daqui sem o meu desenho!"
E conseguiu! Parabéns Marconi, um desenhista de Curitiba nunca se deixa intimidar por um qualquer "Padrinho" de meia tijela, tirado de um filme de Francis Ford Coppola...
The Circus burglar
The urbansketchers from Curitiba meet every Sunday to draw. They aready take more than 70 meetings without fail, and following the end of the symposium day, they did it again, this time in Paraty. Besides persistent and talented, they are also very funny, judging José Marconi and his charming wife Lia.
On the evening of Thursday, me and João Catarino went out, running through the Casa da Cultura, the ymposium headquarters, fleeing the concert that was taking place, because we had not eaten yet. We were "kidnapped" by Fernanda Vaz de Campos, perhaps the most tireless of all the staff from the symposium, which took us to a Italian restaurant full with good urbansketchers, those who were in Paraty to teach and we know from the books. It was after ten o'clock, we ordered pasta, served in a deep dish those who can also take a soup. Without asking permission we were surprised by Marconi and Lia, who sat next to us. Lia ordered two cachaças, and offered me one. I did not complain. Through funny stories and a laughter absolutely unforgettable from Lia, José told a delightful story:
On one of those Sunday meetings in Curitiba, they went to a circus to draw. Apparently they were very well received by the dwarf, the bearded lady, the trapeze artists, for a morning of unusual drawings. Already after lunch, at home, Marconi realized that he had forgotten the drawing somewhere. The Circus!
He returned to the circus in the afternoon, alone. He found a different place, empty of fun people, a kind of scenario taken from one of those movies from a mafia place. Nobody treated him well. Neither dwarf nor the bearded lady or the trapeze.
"Ok, there was no bearded lady, I invented. But everything else is true," said Marconi. They told me they had not found any drawing.
"Go away!" they said.
"But I'm not leaving here without my drawing!" said Marconi while Lia laughed as a lost.
No one was there willing to help him. They call the head of the circus, the owner of the dwarves, the bearded lady and trapeze artists. No, there was no bearded lady.
"You know that in the circus everything has a price?" Said the big boss.
It seemed that they wanted money for the return of the drawing, which had been offered to him as a very special gift. José felt an increasing tension and desire to leave.
"I'm not leaving here without my drawing!"
And he did it! Congratulations Marconi, one sketcher from Curitiba can never be intimidated by any ridiculous "Godfather", from a Francis Ford Coppola film ...
On the evening of Thursday, me and João Catarino went out, running through the Casa da Cultura, the ymposium headquarters, fleeing the concert that was taking place, because we had not eaten yet. We were "kidnapped" by Fernanda Vaz de Campos, perhaps the most tireless of all the staff from the symposium, which took us to a Italian restaurant full with good urbansketchers, those who were in Paraty to teach and we know from the books. It was after ten o'clock, we ordered pasta, served in a deep dish those who can also take a soup. Without asking permission we were surprised by Marconi and Lia, who sat next to us. Lia ordered two cachaças, and offered me one. I did not complain. Through funny stories and a laughter absolutely unforgettable from Lia, José told a delightful story:
On one of those Sunday meetings in Curitiba, they went to a circus to draw. Apparently they were very well received by the dwarf, the bearded lady, the trapeze artists, for a morning of unusual drawings. Already after lunch, at home, Marconi realized that he had forgotten the drawing somewhere. The Circus!
He returned to the circus in the afternoon, alone. He found a different place, empty of fun people, a kind of scenario taken from one of those movies from a mafia place. Nobody treated him well. Neither dwarf nor the bearded lady or the trapeze.
"Ok, there was no bearded lady, I invented. But everything else is true," said Marconi. They told me they had not found any drawing.
"Go away!" they said.
"But I'm not leaving here without my drawing!" said Marconi while Lia laughed as a lost.
No one was there willing to help him. They call the head of the circus, the owner of the dwarves, the bearded lady and trapeze artists. No, there was no bearded lady.
"You know that in the circus everything has a price?" Said the big boss.
It seemed that they wanted money for the return of the drawing, which had been offered to him as a very special gift. José felt an increasing tension and desire to leave.
"I'm not leaving here without my drawing!"
And he did it! Congratulations Marconi, one sketcher from Curitiba can never be intimidated by any ridiculous "Godfather", from a Francis Ford Coppola film ...
04/09/2014
Roupas felizes
A cachaça Engenho do Ouro é produzida artesanalmente em plena mata atlântica, um local verdejante e inspirador a cerca de 8 km de Paraty. Fomos de ônibus desde o largo do chafariz em direcção à Estrada Real, construída por escravos entre os séculos XVII e XIX e que hoje é também denominada por Caminho do Ouro, ligando Paraty a Minas Gerais, São Paulo e Rio de Janeiro.
Foi o local do meu primeiro workshop do simpósio, com a italiana Simonetta Capecchi e sob o tema "The sketched reportage". Fomos recebidos pelo simpático Adriano, o responsável pela produção, e que ali trabalha desde 2010. A ideia era desenhar o processo de produção da cachaça, desde a trituração e moagem da cana do açúcar, extraindo um suco verde chamado de caldo (e que provámos acabadinho de extrair, absolutamente delicioso), que segue para as dornas de fermentação e é destilado depois no alambique, obtendo o delicioso néctar. Acho que desenhei tudo o que queria, incluindo um pequeno banco de madeira muito velho e desengonçado, meio escondido por entre os barris que envelheciam a cachaça, e que me fez lembrar um que o meu avô carpinteiro construiu e que ainda hoje existe. Estava a começar o desenho quando a Jessie Chapman, uma simpática americana que faz parte do comité dos USK, se atravessou na minha frente e se decidiu a sentar no banco. Olhou para ele com medo, achei que percebesse que não era seguro. Esperei que desistisse e me deixasse acabar o desenho. Não desistiu, e acabou por sentar-se para desenhar o alambique, ou outra coisa qualquer. Não acabei o meu desenho.
Encostado ao balcão, e enquanto chovia torrencialmente, decidimos perguntar ao Adriano se podíamos provar as diferentes cachaças produzidas, seis no total. Provei três delas, a prata, a carvalho, e finalmente a Gabriela, baptizada assim depois de o filme com o mesmo nome ter sido rodado em Paraty. Gostei de todas, mas disse ao Adriano que não poderia levar uma garrafa comigo porque não tinha bagagem de porão, e na cabine nunca deixariam levar. Contei-lhe que à treze anos atrás regressava do Brasil com uma garrafa de cachaça pelo meio das roupas na mala de porão, que se partiu durante a viagem estragando tudo. Disse-me o Adriano divertido:
"Estragando tudo? As roupas ficaram felizes..."
Rimos que nem uns perdidos. Olhei para o lado e vi o banco de madeira sozinho. Bebi o último golo de cachaça e acabei finalmente o desenho.
Happy clothes
The Cachaça Engenho do Ouro is handcrafted in the Atlantic forest, a lush and inspiring site about 8 km from Paraty. We got the bus from the Largo do Chafariz towards the Royal Road built by slaves between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries and is today also known by Gold Trail, connecting Paraty to Minas Gerais, São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.
Was the place for my first workshop of the symposium, with the Italian Simonetta Capecchi and under the theme "The sketched reportage". We were friendly received by Adriano, responsible for the production and working here since 2010. The idea was to draw the full process of production of cachaça, from grinding and milling of sugar cane, extracting a green juice called broth (we taste it and it was absolutely delicious), which goes to the fermentation vats and is then distilled in alembic, getting the delicious nectar. I think I drew everything I wanted, including a small wooden bench rickety and old, half hidden among the barrels with cachaça, and that bench reminded me one similar built by my carpenter grandfather, which still exists today. Was beginning the drawing when Jessie Chapman, a friendly American who is part of the USK committee, crossed in front of me and decided to sit on the bench. Looked at it with fear, she realized that it was not safe. I waited her to give up and let me finish the drawing. She didn´t, and finally sit down to draw the alembic, or something else. I did not finish my drawing.
Leaning against the counter, raining a lot on the outside, Adriano decided to ask if we would like to taste the different cachaça produced, six in total. I tried three of them, silver, oak, and finally Gabriela, thus named after the movie with the same name, filmed in Paraty. I liked all, but I told Adriano that I could not take a bottle with me because I had no luggage in the plane shall, and in the cabin they never let go. I told him that thirteen years ago and after returning from Brazil, a bottle with cachaça brokes during the trip in my suitcase, ruining everything. Adriano told me with a smile:
"Ruining everything? Clothes became happy ..."
We laughed about that a lot. I looked around and saw the wooden bench alone. I drank the last goal of cachaça and finally ended up the drawing.
Was the place for my first workshop of the symposium, with the Italian Simonetta Capecchi and under the theme "The sketched reportage". We were friendly received by Adriano, responsible for the production and working here since 2010. The idea was to draw the full process of production of cachaça, from grinding and milling of sugar cane, extracting a green juice called broth (we taste it and it was absolutely delicious), which goes to the fermentation vats and is then distilled in alembic, getting the delicious nectar. I think I drew everything I wanted, including a small wooden bench rickety and old, half hidden among the barrels with cachaça, and that bench reminded me one similar built by my carpenter grandfather, which still exists today. Was beginning the drawing when Jessie Chapman, a friendly American who is part of the USK committee, crossed in front of me and decided to sit on the bench. Looked at it with fear, she realized that it was not safe. I waited her to give up and let me finish the drawing. She didn´t, and finally sit down to draw the alembic, or something else. I did not finish my drawing.
Leaning against the counter, raining a lot on the outside, Adriano decided to ask if we would like to taste the different cachaça produced, six in total. I tried three of them, silver, oak, and finally Gabriela, thus named after the movie with the same name, filmed in Paraty. I liked all, but I told Adriano that I could not take a bottle with me because I had no luggage in the plane shall, and in the cabin they never let go. I told him that thirteen years ago and after returning from Brazil, a bottle with cachaça brokes during the trip in my suitcase, ruining everything. Adriano told me with a smile:
"Ruining everything? Clothes became happy ..."
We laughed about that a lot. I looked around and saw the wooden bench alone. I drank the last goal of cachaça and finally ended up the drawing.
03/09/2014
A pianista
A Rita Sabler nasceu em São Petesburgo mas vive em Portland, nos Estados Unidos. Conheci-a no último dia do simpósio na Praça da Bandeira, onde eu fazia o workshop da Lynne Chapman e ela o da Nina Johansson. A Rita foi provavelmente uma das pessoas mais encantadoras e talentosas que conheci em Paraty. É designer, e para além dos desenhos fantásticos que faz em cadernos, é também pianista!
Depois da foto de grupo, entregámo-nos à tarefa de fazer o último desenho do simpósio, no Largo da Matriz. Já passava das cinco da tarde e começava a escurecer, não havia tempo a perder. Deambulei pelo meio da gente, à procura de um assunto para desenhar. Sentada no meio da relva, e debaixo de uma das enormes árvores daquela praça, voltei a encontrar a Rita, estava a desenhar um casal de paratianos que namoravam tranquilamente num banco de jardim. Sentei-me no chão, ao seu lado, e comecei a desenhar. Pelo meio disse-lhe que tinha achado este encontro tão extraordinário que apostava que no próximo ano iria outra vez, fosse na Antártica ou na Lua. Perguntou-me o que eu apostava. Disse-lhe que lhe oferecia um desenho se não fosse.
Depois da festa de encerramento, que terminou depois das nove e meia, saímos num grupo relativamente modesto, talvez dez ou doze pessoas. Ia torto de tão divertido, a conversar com o José Marconi e a Lia, dois sketchers de Curitiba simplesmente deliciosos. A determinada altura separámo-nos, uns foram para a Feira da Nossa Senhora do Rosário, nós fomos para um bar afastado do centro da cidade para dançar forró. Desculpa Marconi, acabei por não me despedir de vocês.
No bar Gamboa voltámos a beber cachaça, cada shot a sete reais. O Sílvio também foi connosco, um argentino que nesse dia fazia 48 anos e transbordava energia. Prometeu-nos que viria no próximo ano a Lisboa para desenhar connosco no Santo António, e eu acho que vem mesmo. Voltei a abrir o caderno para fazer um desenho, sentado num banquinho pequeno, encostado à parede e bem próximo do balcão. Desenhei o Sílvio e a Rita, que também estava connosco e desenhava algo ou alguém, não me dei conta. No final ela pediu-me o desenho. Pensei que poderia pagar adiantado, não vá dar-se o caso de para o próximo ano não poder ir ao Simpósio, e assim perder a aposta. Olhei em frente e vi o João Catarino a esbracejar, aos pulos no meio de gente e a gritar:
"Não rasgues a folha, não rasgues a folha! Olha que é um sacrilégio!"
Não fiz caso, arranquei a página do meio, aquela com a cosedura, num puxão decidido e sem sofrimento. Ofereci-lhe o desenho, enquanto o João balbuciava entre dentes e empurrando os óculos para cima:
"O Mário vai saber disto, o Mário vai saber disto... e tu estás lixado..."
A aposta está paga adiantada, mas tenho a certeza que no próximo ano vou outra vez...
Rita Sabler was born in St. Petersburg but lives in Portland, USA. I meet her on the last day of the symposium on Praça da Bandeira, where I was doing the workshop of Lynne Chapman and she was doing Nina´s. Rita was probably one of the charming and most talented people I met in Paraty. It's designer, and beyond the fantastic drawings in her sketchbook, she is also a pianist!
You can see her drawings HERE and the remaining work HERE.
After the group photo, we give ourselves the task of making the final drawing of the symposium, in Largo da Matriz. It was after five o'clock and it was getting dark, there was no time to lose. I walked through the people, looking for a subject to draw. Sitting in the middle of the grass, and under one of the huge trees from the plaza, I saw Rita again, she was drawing a couple of paratianos who peacefully were dating in a garden bench. I sat on the floor beside her, and started drawing. In the conversation I told her that I found the meeting so extraordinary that I bet that next year I would go again. No matter if in Antarctica or in the Moon. Asked me what I bet. I said I´ll give her a drawing if I failed.
After the closing ceremony, which ended after nine and a half, we left in a relatively small group, maybe ten or twelve people. I was so fun talking with José Marconi and Lia, two sketchers from Curitiba simply delicious. At some point we split up, some went to the Feira da Nossa Senhora do Rosário, and we went to a bar away from the city center to dance forró. Sorry Marconi, I ended up not saying goodbye to you.
Gamboa was the name of the bar we went back to drink cachaça, each shot seven reais. Silvio was also with us, an Argentine who was celebrating is 48th anniversary and has an overflowing energy. Promised us to come next year to Lisbon to draw with us in San Antonio, and I think it will come. I opened the sketchbook to make a drawing, sitting on a small stool, leaning against the wall right next to the counter. I drew Sílvio and Rita, who was also with us drawing something or someone, I did not realize. At the end she asked me for the drawing. I thought I could pay upfront, in the case I failed for next year Simposium, losing the bet. I looked ahead and saw João Catarino with his arms on the air, pounding in the middle of us and shouting:
"Do not rip the sheet, do not rip the sheet! It´s a sacrilege."
After the group photo, we give ourselves the task of making the final drawing of the symposium, in Largo da Matriz. It was after five o'clock and it was getting dark, there was no time to lose. I walked through the people, looking for a subject to draw. Sitting in the middle of the grass, and under one of the huge trees from the plaza, I saw Rita again, she was drawing a couple of paratianos who peacefully were dating in a garden bench. I sat on the floor beside her, and started drawing. In the conversation I told her that I found the meeting so extraordinary that I bet that next year I would go again. No matter if in Antarctica or in the Moon. Asked me what I bet. I said I´ll give her a drawing if I failed.
After the closing ceremony, which ended after nine and a half, we left in a relatively small group, maybe ten or twelve people. I was so fun talking with José Marconi and Lia, two sketchers from Curitiba simply delicious. At some point we split up, some went to the Feira da Nossa Senhora do Rosário, and we went to a bar away from the city center to dance forró. Sorry Marconi, I ended up not saying goodbye to you.
Gamboa was the name of the bar we went back to drink cachaça, each shot seven reais. Silvio was also with us, an Argentine who was celebrating is 48th anniversary and has an overflowing energy. Promised us to come next year to Lisbon to draw with us in San Antonio, and I think it will come. I opened the sketchbook to make a drawing, sitting on a small stool, leaning against the wall right next to the counter. I drew Sílvio and Rita, who was also with us drawing something or someone, I did not realize. At the end she asked me for the drawing. I thought I could pay upfront, in the case I failed for next year Simposium, losing the bet. I looked ahead and saw João Catarino with his arms on the air, pounding in the middle of us and shouting:
"Do not rip the sheet, do not rip the sheet! It´s a sacrilege."
I ignored, ripped the page from the middle, the one with the lacing, with a determined tug and without suffering. I offered her the drawing, while João babbled between teeth pushing up his glasses up:
"Mario will know this, Mario will know it ... and you're screwed ..."
"Mario will know this, Mario will know it ... and you're screwed ..."
The bet is payed in advance, but I´m pretty sure I´ll go next year again...
02/09/2014
PARATY, o último desenho
Não o consigo fazer de outra forma.
Quero começar por publicar o último desenho em vez do primeiro, até porque as estórias também se podem contar ao contrário. A verdade é que ainda não consegui esvaziar o contentamento e o entusiasmo que estes dias em Paraty me trouxeram, e acho que vai demorar. Não se explica por palavras e muito menos em desenhos, só mesmo estando lá, e os últimos são melhores que os primeiros, pelo simples facto de que a hora seguinte em Paraty foi sempre melhor que a anterior...
Nos próximos dias irei publicar vários, cada qual com a sua estória.
Apesar de estarem gravadas na minha cabeça, escrevi-as todas num caderninho durante a minha viagem de regresso de quase 30 horas, para as poder voltar a ler daqui por muito tempo se o esquecimento me invadir sem pedir.
Levantei-me às 6 da manhã, e meia hora depois já estava de mochila e mala com rodinhas a caminho da rodoviária, onde iria apanhar o ônibus que me traria de volta ao Rio (estes dias ainda venho seduzido com algumas palavras em brasileiro, e não resisto). Pelo caminho empedrado encontrei a Cristina, uma argentina de Buenos Aires que também regressava a casa. Não ficámos juntos no autocarro durante a viagem, mas iríamos partilhar táxi até ao aeroporto, onde tivemos uma hora de conversas.
Saímos às sete e vinte, numa viagem que demoraria cerca de quatro horas e meia. Não consegui dormir, ia invadido por um sentimento de saudade daqueles que tira o sono, mesmo que estejamos fisicamente de rastos. Duas horas depois entrou um rapaz franzino, de ar simpático, e que se sentou ao meu lado, no lugar da frente. Olhou de soslaio e fechou os olhos, adormecendo profundamente. Comecei a desenhar, para ver se me animava. Passado pouco tempo acordou, olhou para o desenho e envergonhadamente estendeu-me o polegar, num gesto simpático.
Começamos a falar, e de repente o desenho ganhava sentido. O Wagner tem 32 anos, apanhou o autocarro em Garatucaia, um bairro da periferia do Rio a cerca de 100 km. É cobrador de ônibus, e também DJ, mas hoje estava de folga. Viajava para o Rio para entregar uns documentos da sua filha no hospital da Ilha do Governador, um bairro da cidade, e onde iria ser operada daí por uns dias a uma malformação de nascença. No final do dia regressaria, mas a Angra, onde iria colocar música no clube Vera Cruz, e de onde sairia às 4 da manhã. Daí por duas horas acordaria para trabalhar como cobrador.
Saiu antes de mim e estendeu-me a mão por entre um sorriso. Pediu-me para lhe enviar o desenho. Desejei-lhe que tudo corresse bem com a operação da filha dele. E vai correr, tenho a certeza.
I can not do it differently.
I want to start by publishing the last drawing instead of the first, because the stories can also be counted backwards. The truth is that I still can not empty the joy and enthusiasm that these days in Paraty brought to me, and I think it will take a long to go. It can not be explained in words, much less with drawings, just being there, and the latter are better than the first ones, for the simple fact that the next hour in Paraty was always better than the previous...
In the coming days I will publish a number of drawings, each one with their own story.
Despite being written in my head, I wrote them all down in a small notebook during my return trip of almost 30 hours, so they can re-read here if forgetfulness invade me without asking.
I got up at 6 am, and half na hour after I was already with a suitcase on wheels on the way to the bus station, to catch the bus that would bring me back to Rio (these days I´m still seduced with a few words in Brazilian, and I can not resist). On the way, between a stoned road I found Cristina, an argentine from Buenos Aires who also returned home. We were not together on the bus during the trip, but we would share taxi to the airport, where we had an hour's conversation.
We left at seven-twenty, a trip that would take about four and a half hours. I could not sleep, was invaded by a feeling of nostalgia (saudade in portuguese has no translation), and I could´t sleep, even if we are physically tracked. Two hours later came a frail young man, friendly air, and who sat beside me in the front seat. Squinted and closed his eyes, deeply asleep. I started to draw, to see if I get better. Shortly woke up, looked at the drawing and shyly handed me a thumb, a nice gesture.
We started talking, and suddenly the drawing earned sense. Wagner has 32 years, took the bus in Garatucaia, a neighborhood on the outskirts of Rio about 100 km far away. It is a bus collector, and also DJ, but was off work today. Traveled to Rio to deliver some documents of his daughter in the hospital Governor's Island, a neighborhood of the city, and where she will be operated in a few days to a birth malformation. At the end of the day he would return, but to Angra, where he will put music at club Vera Cruz, and which would leave at 4 in the morning. After two hours he wake up for work as a collector.
He left before me and held my hand through a smile. He asked me to send him the drawing. I wished him that everything went well with the operation of his daughter. And it will, I'm sure.
Saiu antes de mim e estendeu-me a mão por entre um sorriso. Pediu-me para lhe enviar o desenho. Desejei-lhe que tudo corresse bem com a operação da filha dele. E vai correr, tenho a certeza.
I can not do it differently.
I want to start by publishing the last drawing instead of the first, because the stories can also be counted backwards. The truth is that I still can not empty the joy and enthusiasm that these days in Paraty brought to me, and I think it will take a long to go. It can not be explained in words, much less with drawings, just being there, and the latter are better than the first ones, for the simple fact that the next hour in Paraty was always better than the previous...
In the coming days I will publish a number of drawings, each one with their own story.
Despite being written in my head, I wrote them all down in a small notebook during my return trip of almost 30 hours, so they can re-read here if forgetfulness invade me without asking.
I got up at 6 am, and half na hour after I was already with a suitcase on wheels on the way to the bus station, to catch the bus that would bring me back to Rio (these days I´m still seduced with a few words in Brazilian, and I can not resist). On the way, between a stoned road I found Cristina, an argentine from Buenos Aires who also returned home. We were not together on the bus during the trip, but we would share taxi to the airport, where we had an hour's conversation.
We left at seven-twenty, a trip that would take about four and a half hours. I could not sleep, was invaded by a feeling of nostalgia (saudade in portuguese has no translation), and I could´t sleep, even if we are physically tracked. Two hours later came a frail young man, friendly air, and who sat beside me in the front seat. Squinted and closed his eyes, deeply asleep. I started to draw, to see if I get better. Shortly woke up, looked at the drawing and shyly handed me a thumb, a nice gesture.
We started talking, and suddenly the drawing earned sense. Wagner has 32 years, took the bus in Garatucaia, a neighborhood on the outskirts of Rio about 100 km far away. It is a bus collector, and also DJ, but was off work today. Traveled to Rio to deliver some documents of his daughter in the hospital Governor's Island, a neighborhood of the city, and where she will be operated in a few days to a birth malformation. At the end of the day he would return, but to Angra, where he will put music at club Vera Cruz, and which would leave at 4 in the morning. After two hours he wake up for work as a collector.
He left before me and held my hand through a smile. He asked me to send him the drawing. I wished him that everything went well with the operation of his daughter. And it will, I'm sure.
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